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Kyparissía - the "church bay"

walk the eleven miles that separate us from Kyparissía motor: there is no wind today. While browsing the east coast of the Peloponnese appears beautiful and wild: hills dotted with pines, cypress and maquis, a monastery isolated from the rest of the world, a pair of white sandy beaches, set between steep gorges that descend from the high peaks of Mount Parnassus. The village of Kyparissia is at the center of a large and beautiful bay. We follow the advice of our "friend" Rod Heikell and moor in the bay of the church, sheltered from the winds of each quadrant, with emerald water and spectacular views of the mountains and the village of Kyparissia. The only drawback: we are besieged wasps, which in the hundreds, we welcome you just finished a berth alongside the quay of the church, with the top floor.

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Yerakas - the fjord of the Peloponnese Monemvasia

Only eight miles separate us from Yerakas. We start from Monemvasia in the afternoon, around 5.30, with an OR of about 10 kt. The navigation is a bit 'uncomfortable because of steep waves rather we take the cross, a sign that the Central Aegean and Meltemi' season in full force. We know that Yerakas is a protected both by the wind waves, but we are unsure of being able to enter, because by the mouth of the harbor pilot's book seems more 'narrow entrance to Fiumara. When Cape Yerakas to reach across, it seems to slip into a funnel which we do not see the end. But, just behind the red light that indicates the head, the landscape changes completely: the waves disappear and the fjord Yerakas appears in full, with the long quay bordered by a few white houses with blue shutters, 3 restaurants and a mini- market. And, more importantly, Yerakas appears without any sign of tourism of mass. " Only 6 sailboats are moored on the pier and a couple of catamarans in the initial part of the lagoon. Happiness moor a bit 'away from the dock to avoid the rocks and go ashore to visit this charming place to eat and just a great bream caught by fishermen premises on the quay in front of our dock. Next to our table, four German and Austrian sailors - imagine that in retirement, having white hair - they tell their experiences of sailing in the Mediterranean.

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Kythira We leave at lunchtime, with a slight wind from W that forces us to pass the "dreaded" Head Maleas motor! As tradition has it, stop own happiness through the Cape, in the monasteries that were built about 1000 years ago by sailors in gratitude for safe navigation in turbulent water future border between the Ionian and the Aegean Sea. We allow ourselves a nice relaxing bath and continue to about 15 mg on the east coast of the Peloponnese, to the lovely medieval town of Monemvasia. We arrive at dusk and we still own the island where he was standing in front of the old "Malvasia". Tomorrow morning, city tour and tasting of local food and wine.

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Avlemonas -


Only a few miles separate from Kapsali Avlemonas but a stiff wind with some gusts in 40Kt, we discouraged from entering the small bay of the village.
still at the bottom to the main bay, opposite the beach and see two UFOs out in haste from the port and fight with gusts acting violently on large side surfaces and on the "veranda" in the second floor (some people call "motorboat" these objects for us are: "Useless Floating Objects").
Sin can not go back after three years in the pretty village but it is time to put back the bow of Happiness to the east coast of the Peloponnese: Momenvasia is our next waypoint ..

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Kapsali Kythira - Kythira Island


Today 'August and we raise from the moorings Elafonissos to direct the bow of Happiness to Kythera. Our port of arrival and 'Kapsali, south of the island. The wind and 'got up early this morning and encourages us to loose touch with peaks to 39 kt! We sail a lot quickly on the west side of the island and reach Kapsali lunchtime. The bay 'to strong gusts, but we can safely moor and organizing a good dinner of ham and melon salad (Greek, of course!). The village of Kapsali and 'really nice, a few houses Cycladic style - white with blue shutters - and the chora watching us from the hill. Across the bay, a small lighthouse powered by solar panels and a white church. Today is a day of Panagia in Greece and gives us a nice dinner in a restaurant "slow food" with the chef Dimitris prepare us for a Valencian paella and chicken curry. From our table we see the evidence of a performance theater in the Greek language. For one night, no Greek salad and tzatziki! ...

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Elafonisos - The beach "Caribbean"

saluted Jimmy in Yithion, cross the Gulf Lakonikos and, after a brief stay of one night in Plitra, we head to the island Elafonissos, "Deer Island" south of Cape Maleas. We arrive with a beautiful northeast at 25 kt and gusts of moor in the beautiful bay of Ormos Frangos with crystal clear water, emerald, we had already visited three years ago. The wind drops in the afternoon and we can do a swim to the beach. Towards sunset is a sail on the horizon, from the island of Kythira: Skippy is, with Jordan and Sara - a nice pair of Padova already met in several anchorages in the Peloponnese. We greet each other warmly and spend a pleasant evening together, eating penne with tuna and a good Greek salad washed by excellent wines from the Veneto. Our paths diverge to Elafonissos: Happiness continue to Kythira and Skippy to the north. Fair winds!

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Yithion - Gulf Lakonikos

Yithion to arrive in the early afternoon, after a nice sail downwind of, with a SW force 4 which moves us quickly in the 7 mg by dividing Skoutari Yithion. Catch sight of the lighthouse with the neighboring Venetian fortress and then the pretty town, which extends around the port. Within the harbor, only inflatable fishing boats and a few, very few sailboats. We decide to still happy at anchor in the bay in front of the port, in front of the lighthouse. We go down to the ground for a walk and to organize the trip to Jimmy, leaving for London tomorrow.

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Porto Cayo - Cape Tenaron

From the small village of Mezzapo, where we dined at a tavern in micro-character ... very familiar, take several hours to sail with less than 5 knots in almost aft ... Approaching the Cape
Tenaron the wind intensifies and we get close to the wind and with some burst into the sheltered and charming Porto Cayo. Than when we moved in here three years ago, there are small changes but the place is beautiful!

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Diros - The beautiful caves

moored in the bay sandy it was easy. The caves are considered among the finest in the world and can be visited by a flat-bottomed punt led to a kind of "gondolier" pushing the boat with a kind of huge wooden spoon.
You browse, rather unstable, with helmet and jacket tube, about 1.2 m K even if the party is known of the caves of 14Km.
The caves are well lit with lamps floating, and the visit is beautiful!

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Limeni - Mani Peninsula

The Mani Peninsula is the forming the "finger" of the central Peloponnese.

The villages, in the characteristic style Maniota "remember the time when the inhabitants of this land were mainly the Pirates.

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Sparta and Mystras - A jump in the history

to reach Sparta, 60 km of switchbacks, we rent a Fiat Punto from Hellen. Sparta

disappoint: just the old theater is visible and a group of young archaeologists dig and lists of various nationalities under a scorching sun.

Byzantine Mystras is a very beautiful city and the visit, despite the heat, it is very interesting.

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Kalamata - Koroni Gulf Messene

Kalamata Marina arrive in the early afternoon, after a quick sail from Koroni. The marina is 'well equipped and the staff are friendly and speak berth a little' in Italian. Kalamata will be 'our base for a cultural tour that will tomorrow visit the ruins of ancient Sparta and Mistra,' a city 'Byzantine fortress.

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- The Second Republic

This morning we said goodbye to Simon, leaving for Athens, early in the morning. After filling the galley of Methana in the supermarket, put up the genoa and head toward southwards towards Cape Akritas, to achieve what was considered "the second eye of the Venetian Republic in the Ionian Sea" Koroni. A swimming break and lunch in the clear waters of Port Marathi and then off to our destination. The Mistral helps us to arrive quickly, the head touch the 9 kt speed '!

Koroni When we arrived, there appears to be a pleasant village situated on both sides of the bay, with the castle and the monastery to divide the two halves'. We go down to earth for a simple but delicious Greek dinner and finally, ouzo and honey cake bought at the local bakery.

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Methoni Eye - The eye of the Republic

Navigation for Methoni and 'calm, proceed to the slack with only the genoa to about 50 mg and arrive at dusk, "dodging" two warships in full military exercise! Upon our arrival, the sight of the Bay of Methoni and 'fascinating : the tower and the castle walls that surround the head are illuminated and the island of Sapientza protects the bay from almost any wind. We will drop anchor in the midst of a very few sailboats, prepare a good plate of pasta, and enjoy the spectacle of the town and the beautiful starry sky above it.

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Islands Strofades - Mysticism and unspoilt West

Strofades reach the islands, about 30 mg from the Bay of Laganas' island of Zakynthos.

Navigation and 'was relaxed, with a northeast around 15 knots, which pushed us gently to the island more' to the north, Harpy (remember Ulysses?). It 's amazing, we are alone! Before us stands, austere, the monastery of the thirteenth century, which looks like a medieval fortress. We go down to the ground with the dinghy to explore the island and visit what 'remains of the building and also meet the sole inhabitant: the Monaco that from time immemorial lived in the island with his dog, surrounded by chickens, geese, peacocks, cats and goats. He greets us just does not seem bothered by our presence, but we understand that only want to stay and see him take the water from his well for staff make dinner. I respectfully salute and go back on happiness' in time to see a red sunset Belissimo ....

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side of Zakinthos - Force 7

Port Vromi leave with a nice Grecale force 7 - will be 'the effect of the island, but now blowing pretty strong. We sail with just the genoa, roll enough to make olre 9 kt for several miles. After about 20 miles, we stop in the bay of Lagana 'where we greeted by a large "Caretta caretta" which swims while we make our entrance into the bay. We will drop anchor in front of the mouth of the harbor.