By Francis is a bit 'that we think of a winter ... it's time to go! (It is already March).
So we are at eight in the parking lot with two backpacks Morteratsch big ones but essential! our project plan to arrive at the base of the north of Palu, camp out and go up the street Bumiller (middle spur). Simply place your tent in the middle of the plateau under the wall at 3000 m. right in front of our street we never stop to fix (it's beautiful, perfect and scary). Strive to track down 'attack, the next day go up on foot with backpacks and light! Soon the sun goes away and we realize now that does a nice cold ... time to make dinner and everything is frozen, let the night of music, and doze in a temperature between -20 and -25 degrees. The alarm rings at 4:30, the curtain is a piece of ice out and it is hard to see the stars, is very dark (new moon). Heat a bit 'of water, put your boots and prepare is a torture, you must exit the sleeping bag e. .. move! At six games, it is already clear, in short we come under the crevasses and begin a grueling job of beating the snow reaches the basin, the progression is painful, sometimes in hard ice. To save time we climb a waterfall that allows us to overcome a rock band without having to work around then more snow and rocks (land treacherous and precarious) up to the ridge (ice gray hard and earn). We are two hours late than the schedule, the conditions are not good ... but also attack the rocks. We climb three challenging shots with ice axes and crampons, but here the conditions are bad, some forty cm of powder snow over rock ledges and crevices clogged, no transformed snow, no ice (there noticing that the spur never takes sun .. .) seemed to be better off. We are half way, at the base of the big policeman, is bitterly cold and it's late, or force the 'output with the' unknown end of the slopes and safe return to the dark (there is a chance to beat for the track as' attack ) or improvise a retreat (we have one half of 60 and equipment to the limit, fast and light is our motto ...). We opt to go down and some double, two ribbons, a lanyard, a screw abandoned and a bit 'of talent and concentration back to base!
We run against the 'shadow strode going to get to our tent ... We need sun, heat, cold nipped us. Quickly we pack everything (always with her eyes fixed on our way) and we throw down the glacier between Morteratsch beautiful dust and bumps! The heavy backpacks do not allow a great skiing but we have fun anyway! you reach the 'car you down a quart of beer Swiss head and head for Milan.
The cold buff, the effort to bring back all the necessary, and batting track and the precariousness of 'climbing have not done anything but shoot for the stars want to do this our way! Will be for the 'next winter in a rigorous style clean, fast and light!
The conditions are not good for climbing, a rope was attached to the Zippert but withdrew soon after the crevasse to too much snow are excellent for touring, who has climbed the Palu in these two days has made a great skiing !
Among frozen
I froze
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