Two days spent in the great white! Even at 'arrival in Chamonix you start dreaming peering lines frozen, then when the cable car leaves you at Plan de l' Aiguille you enter the parallel world ... Climb the
Rebuffat Terray Pélerins to Phil and to the Col du Plomb Plan. At
Rebuffat come to the end and then three shots down the dark, we spend a good night at the winter shelter Refuge Plan de l 'Aiguille and the next day we climb up to the Fil a Plomb reach the' Aiguille du Midi and we go down Cham by cable car.
The conditions are good but generally dry (all the more technical), for the most popular climbs you can climb on foot. A lot of movement in the area. For
Rebuffat useless screws, make friends only from 0.3 to 2 plus a few small die, the 'attack reaches past the crevasse (mild) slope to the right of the channel directly under the serac. Fil a Plomb
For the crevasse is exceeded well (check) to the left, the crux pitch (second) is dry at the start but protects all well and caught on (many steps). Bring six screws (some short) and a few friends - medium small.
Both ascents, a 'good base is the Refuge Plan de l 'Aiguille, from which 1.30 in / 2 throw away the attacks.
Excellent company with Matt, Andrew and Thomas!! (Should be getting the photos from their own series)
Rebuffat - Terray
V 5 M - 550 m.
The line ends at the Col de Pélerins between the Pélerins el de pointe 'Aiguille de Pélerins.
The rooms via a magnificent system of ramps and wedges with ice / snow on the bottom.
Attention to 'attack serac threatened by the glacier du Plan.
Rappelling on the street.
Fil a Plomb
III 4 + - 700 m.
The line ends at the crest Midi - Plan.
The rooms via a system of waterfalls visible from Chamonix.
Ability to double down in the order of difficulty, but much better to go out on the ridge to reach the 'Aiguille du Midi cable car.
(full descriptions on neige, glace et mixte of Damilano, volume 2)
or ask!
or ask!
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