This was the classic way that I had always been interested in looking through the guide ... what I always wanted to go see but then fell into the background. Today I decide and I go, I want to try this in a solitary place forgotten by all but close to the classic Lecco. Leaving the shelter Square (and the sun) you enter a dark and desolate environment ... after you come down with chains at the base of the scree gully val Farina. From here you gain a lot of attention and effort to share debris (rocks) completely unstable under the tower then you take the right channel ... hard snow, uprooted trees, mounds of earth and boulders frozen unstable ... with some delicate passage to get to 'attack (do not use the old fixed ropes and gear!). The 'environment is not comfortable, they feel exhausted and cold from the channels close (SW but the sun exposure at least in the lower reaches in the afternoon). The first pitch is a sixth in slightly overhanging crack, childbirth ... the second movement I miss a notch (I know that rock is not good, check all outlets), I continue, I put the first reference, and while I'm about to pass the rope comes off the blade to which they are attached! I can grab the court and avoid falling behind! patience, continuous and reaching the second spit me jump two notches (I'm paying attention, I do not hang at random), reference, do I continue to find that the slot is covered by two millimeters of ice for about five meters ... I try to right but comes off an 'other scale! I'm ten feet off the ground (the second spit) and I flipped five outlets and the crack is verglassata! I leave a Quick Link and I decline. Fortunately with a dual I avoid the most thorny of an access channel and then somehow back down the canal of debris and return the race to the Square and ranch!
I knew that I would not have met under optimal conditions -> mediocre rock, cold, etc. ... ravanage but so too!
Well I finally visited this tower and I do not think to come back soon!
's environment is isolated, lonely and harsh, just a stone's throw from the most jokes which makes this place very special and can justify a visit.
Then, I climbed 10 meters of the road, there are 200 and still could be better, or being in any other season has tutt 'other approach ...
If you want to go, you will find detailed info on the site of Paul and Sonja. The path and power plays.
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