last Friday evening I decide to leave, it is a bit 'I look at this face ... the conditions seem good. Saturday morning I leave at five in Milan with the intention to take the first cable car to the Grands Montets, silver tail is already there ... will go up with the second. In an hour I reach the base of the wall are about 10.30 we see a bit 'of cord and a few meters above the crevasse, there is another lonely.
Fix the wall is impressive, high, steep and shady! For a moment think of giving up then I realize that the conditions are good, does not even cold and I feel fit!
The crevasse is good for more than a vertical wall, then on track to reach the top Messner rising in a narrow channel with beautiful passages. Aiming to meet Goulottes top ten meters of hard ice (on ice only section of the street). There are nearly vertical walls and trenches up to the summit slope leading to the collar where the road ends. It took me four hours without
running and waiting a couple of steps behind the ropes. A few days ago we put a rope 3.30 hours (!) And Ueli Steck has put there 2!
The conditions are excellent and numerous passages make life easier on the whole, however, the wall does not lose its commitment!
the hill know each other and decide to make the lone doubles together to make faster and do not clog the channel (the ropes that are coming in the meantime had passed). At the top there is not much snow (sure stone furniture) and the strings a bit 'better fit then until the' last double that settles just below the crevasse (60 m) around a dozen doubles. Are 16.30 and I expect a very long descent to Chamonix (it only takes 4.30 hours) ... They are on foot, but the track is good and so I run down to the Glacier de Leschaux and walked on the Mer de Glace, the last red light fills the Dru! then pull out the battery ... The snow is hard and low towards the end of the Mer de Glace I'm in the dark boulders and blocks of ice without a real track but with a little 'attention (and sniffing) arrival at the grotto and the iron staircase that goes back the moraine! After the stairs, a path winding back up to Montenvers and from here a very beaten path, and then frozen at times! door in a 'time (run) in Chamonix (last meters to the ski slope). From the hill-end street in Chamonix are approximately 3000 meters in altitude, and very More development, infinite descent!
are the 21 and I'm in and I get to Chamonix Argentiere: 9 km are yet! I set out hitchhiking, does not stop anyone! After a mile a car approaches, there are three girls, three skiers in Chamonix! these beautiful girls are my savior, I'm tired and I say a few words in the car ... I do leave a few hundred meters from the machine, is now done and I want to enjoy until the 'last this wonderful day! The return trip to Milan is business as usual, with the loud music!
Ginat - Les Droites
IV - 5000 to 1000 m.
Espo: N
Quote attack: 3000 m.
Access: From
Argentiere take the Grands Montets leading to the hill of the same name at 3233 m. From here
fall diagonally to the left of the Glacier de Rognons and switch between the Rognon q. 2866 m. NE and the spur of the Great Wall Rocheuse then get on base (and danger of falling down crevasses crevasses on the route).
Ascent:
Overcoming the crevasse, climb the first slope (50 ° -60 °) and slip into the recessed channel via Messner. Crest of snow and then slope (60 °) to the base of the difficulties. Attach to the left of Jackson and obvious variant tends to follow the right wall and Goulottes frozen until the slope (50 ° - 100 m) leading to the hill. From here we descend into the canal and continue along the summit ridge.
Descent:
From the start of double collar, about 10 to below the crevasse, Talefre side.
Continue on to the Glacier de Talefre Glacier de Leschaux. Now follow the Mer de Glace to the iron stairs leading to a path and then Montenvers. From here, walk through the woods (signs) in Chamonix.
For info:
Guide Neige, Glace et mixte of Damilano vol. Or ask one!
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